Many fashion houses popped up in the early- to mid-twentieth centuries. Inter-war and post-war Europe was ripe for designers to strike out and build their empire. (Nothing goes with heightened emotions like new clothing!) However, although many designers attempted to leave their mark, relatively few became permanent fixtures. Dior and Balenciaga’s legacies were secured and the houses thrive today, a small club. And Givenchy is also included in that club. Best known for dressing Audrey Hepburn, the house is still thriving in the twenty-first century. Today’s style history of Givenchy is looking at both the designer and the house!
The Early History of Givenchy
Hubert de Givenchy was born in February 1927 in Beauvais, Oise. His father, Lucien Taffin de Givenchy (Marquis of Givenchy) died of influenza when he was three years old. He was raised by his mother, Beatrice, and her mother (his maternal grandmother). Although there were no fashion designers or dressmakers, his family was rather artistic. His maternal grandfather had been an artist, his great-grandfather a set designer for the Elysée Palace, and his great-great-grandfather a set designer for the Paris Opera. Unsurprisingly, he left at 17 to study at the École des Beaux-Arts. (Fun fact: Valentino, Givenchy’s contemporary, also studied at the École.)
Givenchy’s Early Designs
Givenchy’s first designs were under Jacques Fath’s label, starting in 1945. He also created designs under Robert Piguet, who also trained Christian Dior. Although Dior’s eponymous label debuted in February of 1947, Givenchy’s own label formed slightly later. From 1947, to 1951, he worked under Elsa Schiaparelli, In 1952, he opened his own house, and his first collection was named for the well-known Paris model Bettina Graziana. While Dior’s designs were on the more conservative side and made with luxurious fabrics, Givenchy tended to use inexpensive fabrics (due to cost) and experimental designs. (Both styles had their place, as not everyone wants to wear the same style.)
Audrey Hepburn and Givenchy
Can you mention Givenchy without immediately thinking of Audrey Hepburn? (I can’t, at the very least.) The pair met in 1953 while Hepburn was working on Sabrina, and fashion history was made. The actress had asked Givenchy to design her costumes for Sabrina, but unfortunately, he was unable to commit. She was able to choose pieces already made, and their working relationship (and friendship) were set. He designed her iconic black dress in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, one of the most well-known dresses in the world. And his gowns feature prominently in one of my favourite films of all time- Funny Face. Edith Head designed most of the costumes, but Givenchy’s pieces are featured in scenes where Jo is modelling at different Paris locations.
Diversification
Givenchy quickly diversified his designs. He continued to create his haute couture pieces, but in 1954, he debuted his first prêt-à-porter collection. In 1957, Givenchy’s first perfumes launched, including L’Interdit and Le de Givenchy. (Hepburn was the face of his first perfume campaign, not a bad name to launch it.) In the late 1960s, Givenchy launched his first men’s line. There were even Givenchy versions of cars- everything could carry the Givenchy name! (This wasn’t unique to Givenchy- many designers diversified in the 1970s and 1980s.)
The House of Givenchy
Although it can be confusing with epnoymous houses, Hubert de Givenchy and the House of Givenchy are not one in the same. Firstly, the perfume division was bought by Veuve Clicquot in 1985 and the fashion by LVMH at the end of the decade. Secondly, the designer retired in 1995, but the House of Givenchy continued on. John Galliano was creative director for a short while, and he was followed by Alexander McQueen for five years. After different directors taking over different portions, British Clare Waight Keller is now creative director of Givenchy. Keller designed the Duchess of Sussex’s 2018 wedding gown.
Further Readings
Sadly Givenchy is another case of a designer who hasn’t had much attention as an individual. My theory is that he was considered a more contemporary designer, and thus not given as much attention. Here is hoping someone writes that biography!
Audrey and Givenchy: A Fashion Love Affair– Given that Hepburn and Givenchy both helped to propel the other’s career, this relationship is the perfect subject for study.
“Givenchy Muses Throughout History” – Most fashion designers have their muses, and Givenchy is no exception.
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If you are interested in reading some of my other Style History profiles, you can find them below:
What do you know of the style history of Givenchy?
Cheers,
The Historian
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