If you ever mention that you are going to London, inevitably the Tower of London will come up, as well Westminster and the London Eye. While they are very interesting, you will often be waylaid by heaps of tourists and bored children who don’t understand why they are being dragged around. However, there are a few hidden gems in London where you can see some of the most incredible history and escape the crazy crowds. Banqueting House is the perfect respite from the hecticness of London. And in case you are unsure, these are the 3 reasons why you need to visit Banqueting House.
Banqueting House was designed and built by the “infamous” (according to the guide) English architect Inigo Jones. (You may remember him as the genius who designed the Queen’s House at Greenwich, which includes the beautiful Tulip Stairs.) He was the mastermind behind many of their masques- theatrical performances- and created James I and Queen Anne of Denmark a permanent Banqueting House to house all of their masques and banquets. It was completed in 1621 in the Palladian style of architecture, and over the coming century or so, the rest of Whitehall would be built in the same.
The Calm in the Whitehall Storm
While I loved doing a tour of the Palace of Westminster, aka the UK parliament buildings, it is a heinously busy area of London. Obviously most visitors to London want to see Westminster and Big Ben (when it isn’t under construction). However, there are also thousands of people who work at Westminster and the immediate area who are there also. There are people rushing in and out of tube stations and bus stops with briefcases and backpacks and who knows what else. But there is a way out!
Take a quick five minute walk down Whitehall, and you will find a peaceful but beautiful reprieve from it all. Banqueting House is an unsuspecting Palladian building that fits in with the rest of Whitehall, but once you find your way inside, it is an entirely different story. Banqueting House is the only remaining portion of Whitehall Palace. The rest of the Palace was destroyed in two fires. The first, smaller fire in April of 1691 burnt down the “oldest and most densely-occupied southern part of the palace… after a blaze was started by some candles lit in the Duke of Gloucester’s lodgings.” (Susanne Groom. Discover the Banqueting House. Hampton Court Palace: Historic Royal Palaces, 2017. p.49) The state apartments did escape unscathed from that fire. Unfortunately, a second fire on 4 January 1698 destroyed the remainder of the Palace, save for Banqueting House. On William III’s orders, all measures were taken to save Banqueting House, and so we can still enjoy it today.
You Can Walk in the Footsteps of History
Although Banqueting House seems like it may be just the place for parties and masques, it has seen so much more. The main reason that I actually wanted to visit Banqueting House is it the site of Charles I’s execution. It has been restored to a gorgeous and colourful former life, but the English Civil War was a darker time. On 30 January 1649, Charles was led out onto a scaffold on the second storey (or first, if you are in Europe) and beheaded. (We don’t know which window it was- I was that person who asked.) One of the most sombre events in English history,
Charles I walked across the hall, under the magnificent ceiling, which 20 years before, he had commissioned from Rubens… Erected against the Banqueting House in Whitehall, the scaffold was hung round with black…. The King stepped through a window and moved from the fairytale illusion of the Banqueting House imagery to the stark horror of the scaffold. (Discover, p. 36-37)
I know that people associate the Tower of London with beheadings and death. I think that the stark horror of Charles I’s execution and the dissolution of the monarchy under Cromwell is far more terrifying. And I hope that I find myself in London in January. On the anniversary of his execution, there is a service at Banqueting House in remembrance.
A Ceiling of Peter Paul Rubens
The real reason that anyone goes to visit Banqueting House? The ceiling. The ceiling is decorated by nine different paintings by Dutch artist Peter Paul Rubens. Commissioned by Charles I in approximately 1629-1630, the paintings were installed at Banqueting House in 1636. Sadly, we know nothing of the discussions between Charles and Rubens as the correspondence does not survive. However, Rubens was knighted upon his last audience with Charles, so it seems that his royal patron was happy with them.
Do you recall how I said that it is a relaxing place to visit? Well, the wonderful people at HRP have thoughtfully provided bean bag chairs for us to literally lay back and take it all in. Because it tends not to be very busy, I was able to sit for a bit in each of the chairs. If you use the audio-guide that comes with your ticket, it will direct you where to go with each segment. I would recommend listening to the full guide- it is certainly fascinating, and really gives you the whole picture (pun intended). It took me about 45 minutes to listen to the whole guide, not including re-listens. (You’ve also already paid for it…)
The Union of the Crowns
Each ceiling panel tells a very specific story. My favourite is this, The Union of the Crowns, showing the unification of the thrones of Scotland and England under James VI/I. The imagery is particularly impressive in this painting. According to Historic Royal Palaces,
This canvas, which is directly overhead as you enter the hall, shows the joining of the crowns of Scotland and England under the reign of James I. The goddess Minerva brings the two crowns together over the young child who may represent Great Britain. The child could also be seen as the new dynastic heir, the future Charles II, born in May 1630, at the time the paintings were commissioned. (Discovering, p.33.)
Because it is overhead as you step in, you don’t necessarily notice it immediately. Although it isn’t quite as large as the centre panel, its importance is clear in its position and size. (It is considerably larger than the panels in the corners.) Political unification between Scotland wouldn’t happen until the early eighteenth century under Queen Anne, meaning that the unification of the crowns in the seventeenth century is notable.
Wise Government holding a bridle above Intemperate Discord
This panel is the most ironic to me, given everything that Oliver Cromwell put in motion. Yes, they did manage to de-throne and execute a king, but Charles II returned to England in 1660 to take the throne. James I cautioned his son to use moderation above all else, but Cromwell and his Commonwealth didn’t seem to heed that message. He was actually proclaimed king on the throne that sits in Banqueting House, and met representatives of both houses of Parliament there. I can’t help but believe that the symbolism of the ceiling wouldn’t have escaped them. Charles II continued to host ambassadors and different events at Banqueting House, including his birthday and the anniversary of his accession.
Tips for When You Visit Banqueting House
-Check on the Banqueting House website prior to visiting- it is often closed for private events, and it will be listed there.
-Pay attention to what is happening in Whitehall and Westminster. If there are protests or marches happening, you may not be able to visit. (I specifically scheduled my visit for a Sunday to avoid it.)
-You could probably rush and do it completely in half an hour, but I would give yourself 60-90 minutes to truly enjoy it.
-An adult ticket is only £7 with the gift donation, so it is a fantastic royal history stop if you are on a budget.
Are you going to visit Banqueting House?
Cheers,
The Historian
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