Halloween is almost upon us again. And with Halloween comes costumes and fancy dress- one of the only times most of us do dress up nowadays. However, people were not so limited in the past. Although it happened in July and not in October, like most costumed events now I believe that the Devonshire House Ball was one of the most elaborate and successful costume events in modern history. For Style File Friday this week, we are going to be exploring the opulence and history of the Devonshire House Ball in 1897!
What was the Devonshire House Ball?
The Devonshire House Ballet in 1897 was a fancy dress ball, aka a costume party. The Duke and Duchess of Devonshire had hosted a similarly lavish ball in the 1870s, and it was immensely popular with the Prince and Princess of Wales (the future King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra). In honour of Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee in 1897, they decided to replicate the event. They held the ball at their London house, Devonshire House, in Picadilly. While multiple balls were held every night during the London season, this was the ball.
The Duke of Devonshire was a Member of Parliament and a Liberal cabinet member and was an original member of the Marlborough Set. (The Marlborough Set was the group of friends and aristocrats who were closely connected with the Waleses, named for the Prince’s Marlborough House. The group enjoyed a lavish party, where money was no object- at least not for Edward…)
What was the Theme of the Devonshire House Ball?
Like any good costume party, the ball needed a theme. The Devonshires chose the theme of “allegorical or historical dress from before 1815”, which led to centuries and centuries of possibilities. Understandably, many of the attendees chose to attend as various historic royals, including Catherine the Great and Emperor Charles V. Of course, these were not simple Spirit of Halloween costumes. Oh no, these were couture, with the likes of Worth and Cartier behind many of the costumes. What would we expect from royalty… who are dressed as different royals?
Who Attended the Ball?
Reports at the time incorrectly speculated that over 3,000 invitations were sent out ahead of the ball. However, there were between 700 and 800 attendees. (These grand houses were large but not that large.)
The British Royal Family attended in full force. The Prince and Princess of Wales attended of course, as well as The Duke and Duchess of York (the future King George V and Queen Mary), The Duke and Duchess of Connaught, and The Duke and Duchess of Fife.
Europe was well-represented, as well. The future King Haakon VII of Norway attended, along with his wife Maud (daughter of the Prince and Princess of Wales), Tsar Nicholas II and Empress Alexandra of Russia, Prince Alfred of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha (son of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert), and The Duke and Duchess of Teck. From India, Prince Victor Duleep Singh attended, also.
Notable Costumes
Even though they are in black and white, the pictures from this event are impressive. It is easy to see that these guests are dripping in luxury, and that no element was forgotten. Charles Spencer-Churchill, the 9th Duke of Marlborough, received the honour of wearing one of the most expensive costumes. The House of Worth designed his velvet and damask costume as the French Ambassador to the Court of Catherine the Great, completed with silver and gold embroidery and pearl and diamond embellishments.
The Princess of Wales attended as Queen Marguerite de Valois, and her daughter-in-law, The Duchess of York, attended as one of Marguerite’s ladies in waiting.
Lady Randolph Spencer-Churchill, mother to one Winston Churchill, dressed as Austrian Empress Maria Theresa, and the Countess of Warwick was Marie Antoinette.
Interestingly, many of the royal guests did not choose to emulate a specific royal- the Tsar and Tsarina chose to wear court dress from Peter the Great’s reign, rather than an actual figure.
National Portrait Gallery, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
The Hostess with the Most-ess
The Duchess of Devonshire understood her role as hostess for the evening. She went as Zenobia, Queen of Palmyra, and The Times reported on her incredible costume:
“The Duchess of Devonshire, as Zenobia, Queen of Palmyra, wore a magnificent costume. The skirt of gold tissue was embroidered all over in a star-like design in emeralds, sapphires, diamonds, and other jewels outlined with gold, the corners where it opened in front being elaborately wrought in the same jewels and gold to represent peacocks outspread tails. This opened to show an underdress of cream crepe de chine, delicately embroidered in silver, gold, and pearls and sprinkled all over with diamonds. The train, which was attached to the shoulders by two slender points and was fastened at the waist with a large diamond ornament, was a green velvet of a lovely shade, and was superbly embroidered in Oriental designs introducing the lotus flower in rubies, sapphires, amethysts, emeralds, and diamonds, with four borderings on contrasting grounds, separated with gold cord. The train was lined with turquoise satin. The bodice was composed of gold tissue to match the skirt, and the front was of crepe de chine hidden with a stomacher of real diamonds, rubies and emeralds and jewelled belt. A gold crown incrusted (sic) with emeralds, diamonds, and rubies, with a diamond drop at each curved end and two upstanding white ostrich feathers in the middle, and round the front festoons of pearls with a large pear shaped pearl in the centre falling on the forehead.”
Want to know more about the Devonshire House Ball?
You can visit the National Portrait Gallery with all of the photographs from the ball here!
You can listen to the Dress: Fancy podcast episode on the ball here!
Were you familiar with the history of the Devonshire House Ball in 1897? What would you have worn as a costume?
Cheers,
The Historian
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