Dior’s different artistic designers have taken the house in many different directions over the decade. Although they are tasked with creating a cohesive progression of Dior, there is a lot of room for creativity and risk. And if nothing else, John Galliano is known for risk. His designs do seem to deviate more than other Dior designs. However, there is also usually a fascinating story behind them. For this Style File Friday I’m going to be looking at the Look 24 ensemble from AW 2004, one of my favourite Dior by John Galliano pieces.
Galliano is a complicated figure in the Dior historiography. He embodies a dramatic and avant-garde period in the House, and many of his designs are art rather than clothing. And the Look 24 ensemble is truly a piece of art.
Look 24 Ensemble AW 2004, Galliano for Dior
The exhibition information provided for this particular ensemble is a goldmine for a fashion historian. (If all exhibitions could include information like this, I would be thrilled.) “The inspiration for this fantastical mix by John Galliano included the 19th-century Empress Elisabeth “Sisi” of Austria, 1950s film star Zsa Zsa Gabour and 18th- and 19th-century decorative arts. The dress combines an exaggerated version of an 1860s corset with a dramatically draped skirt which, with its patterned gold border, recalls 18th-century Sèvres porcelain.”
As soon as someone brings Sisi into the equation, I’m there. She was a tragic and lonely woman, but had an incredible sense of style and fashion. Like Galliano, she was larger than life, so it is an apt bit of inspiration. (Want to read more about Sisi? I’ve got one of my favourite books here!) Would anyone wear this dress? Probably not. But is it an amazing piece of craftsmanship? Absolutely.
Galliano for Dior- An Abrupt End
Galliano was dismissed from Dior in 2011, after being arrested for making anti-Semitic remarks. Although the house had put up with quite a lot from Galliano, the house swiftly ended his tenure as Creative Director and hired Raf Simons as the next head.
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Looking for more historically-inspired Dior? Head here!
Have you seen any Dior by John Galliano pieces?
Cheers,
The Historian
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