The Victoria and Albert Museum has the largest textile collection in the world, and the most comprehensive. If you can think of a textile, you can probably find an example of it at the V&A. While their major exhibitions like Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty and Dior: Designer of Dreams are often what brings most people in to see their textile collection, there is more. A lot more. (More than we could ever hope to see, if we are being realistic.) But you should absolutely visit their Fashion Collection, to see stunning pieces like this Charles James dress!
Room 40 is where you will find fashion at the V&A, and it is one of my favourites (obviously). This dress stands out in an impressive gallery of fashion; the striking colour and print of the gown cannot be missed. But what is the story behind this Charles James dress from 1938?
According to the collection, it is a “[g]reen silk evening dress, full length, with flaring skirt. It consists of a crossover bodice cut with a keyhole in front, outlined by crossed-over draping, which extends over each shoulder and round arm, forming sleeves. Printed with a Cocteau art print of meandering, doodled faces in profile.” (Interestingly, this particular piece was donated to the V&A by James himself.) Although the design of the dress is gorgeous, what really grabs your attention is the print.
This is obviously a unique print to see on a dress, and it highlights one of my favourite parts of fashion from the first half of the twentieth century. The print was designed by French writer and director Jean Cocteau. He had fallen in love with actor Jean Marais, and the doodled faces in question are masks of Cocteau and Marais. You will find many artists and writers woven into fashion in the 1920s, 1930s, and 1940s, and they are some of the most fascinating pieces. (Schiaparelli notably collaborated with Dalí.)
If you are interested in more of the V&A’s Fashion Collection, this Schiaparelli evening gown is something else!
Have you seen this Charles James dress in person?
Cheers,
The Historian
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I absolutely love the green dress, I love everything about it, the style, cut, colour, but absolutely love the faces!
It is so incredible, the whole of it!! I wish the same detail and thought was put into our everyday clothing now- think of what our wardrobes could be!!