In the last few years, we’ve had a couple of big period dramas come out based on different designers. Halston was fairly big on Netflix in spring 2021 and really brought him into the public spotlight. I also very much enjoyed Balenciaga, the 2024 mini-series on the Spanish designer. However, I hadn’t been able to catch The New Look yet (also from 2024). Now that I’ve actually seen it, should you watch The New Look?
Well, Apple TV finally offered a free weekend of viewing at the beginning of January, so I finally got around to watching The New Look! (Unfortunately, Apple does not have enough shows that interest me to make it worth subscribing to, so it was a bit of a wait.) And I do have thoughts.
Acting in The New Look
I have to say, Maisie Williams’ performance as Catherine Dior was brilliant. Difficult to watch? Yes, as Catherine led a difficult life. However, I think it is my favourite role of hers. She brought a lot of depth and emotion to the role that I wasn’t expecting, and she is the star of the show. Ben Mendelsohn’s performance as Christian Dior was also wonderful and showcased the designer’s complexity, I wish I would have had more time with him (more on that below.) In terms of supporting character’s Emily Mortimer’s Elsa stole the show for me. (If she is in a period drama, there is a 95% chance I will watch it.)
The Focus of The New Look
While I enjoyed the show, there were a few things that I was not expecting. Firstly, I wasn’t expecting so much of the show to be about Catherine or the war itself. Not that her story isn’t worth telling (I would highly recommend reading Justine Picardie’s biography of Catherine), but with the title of The New Look, I was expecting more on the actual fashion history. (I saw several people compare it to the Balenciaga period drama, and I wouldn’t make that comparison myself.) The fashion really only comes into focus in the last two episodes, and I would have loved more. It rather felt like it was somewhat saying that the fashion/fashion history doesn’t matter, and I’ve explained elsewhere why I think that is problematic.
Chanel
I also was not expecting so much of the show to focus on Coco Chanel. I specifically don’t engage with media connected to Chanel, so this is partially on me for not reading more before watching. Juliette Binoche’s acting was wonderful, but I think it is an overly sympathetic portrayal of the designer. (When I shared that thought on social media, some people thought she looked bad for her work with the Nazis- I think the show was rather kind in how it approached it.)
I do think that the title and basic description indicate that Dior would be more of a focus than he was. It is unfortunate, as his story is just as valid and interesting as Chanel’s. And quite frankly, if they wanted to make a show with Chanel as the centrepiece, they absolutely could have.
Should You Watch The New Look?
The New Look was certainly interesting and is a wide-ranging drama. However, I would say whether or not you should watch it would be based on what you want out of it. If you want to see more of Dior’s story and his fashion, this is not the show for you. If you want to see more of Chanel and Paris in the 1940s and 1950s, this is more of a show for you. I personally do not think that this is a very re-watchable show, nor do I think that it is worth specifically getting Apple TV for. If there is another free weekend, perhaps give it a go!
Have you watched The New Look?
Cheers,
The Historian
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