Cartier was one of the big exhibitions I was looking forward to seeing on my London trip, and I will be sharing a full review of the exhibition soon. However, to get into the holiday spirit, I am sharing some of my favourite festive Cartier jewels! For Style File Friday, these are some of my favourite emerald and ruby pieces from the Cartier exhibition!
Festive Cartier Jewels at the V&A
Obviously there were many, many pieces of jewellery with a myriad of different stones throughout the entire exhibition. In keeping with my holiday theme for Blogmas, I am sharing some of the ruby and emerald highlights! (Expect more to come soon, and in the meantime, keep an eye on my social media…)
Berenice Tiara with emeralds, diamond, and platinum, 2012
In my opinion, this is one of the most modern pieces throughout, and I loved seeing it. While I love the older pieces, it is interesting to see modern design principles in action. The central 140.13 carat emerald is carved, which you can miss if you are looking closely. (I didn’t realise just how many carved stones the house has used over the centuries- looking back through my photos, it is a theme.)
The emerald was originally set in a necklace for the 1925 Expo in Paris, an event staged to help promote French craft and artistry. Shortly afterwards, the gem was then set into a brooch. In 2012, it was repurposed again and set into this modern tiara. If the wearer wants some variety, the central element can be worn as a brooch.
Tiara with diamonds, synthetic rubies, and platinum, 1913
Alexandra Calvocoressi Comnène commissioned this tiara in 1913 for her marriage to Belgian diplomat Robert Everts. She largely chose the design and most of the stones came from her own collection, notably including the three synthetic rubies. This is definitely a gap in my own knowledge, but I did not realise that synthetic stones were being created and used in jewellery this early. The tiara is spectacular in person, and I would not have guessed that the stones were created!
The V&A owns this tiara (it was given to the government in lieu of Inheritance Tax and given to the museum), so you may see it in the jewellery gallery or in other exhibitions!
Shoulder Clip Brooch with emeralds, diamonds, platinum, and enamel, 1923/1928
This very massive and impressive brooch stands out in an exhibition of dazzling jewels- it really says something. Socialite Marjorie Merriweather Post bought the emerald, diamond, platinum, and enamel piece in its original pendant form and in 1928 had Cartier adapt it into this brooch form. Including seven large carved Mughal emeralds (over 250 carats total, no big deal), it shows the house’s skill in working with a variety of stones. Notably, the largest emerald most likely dates back to the seventeenth century.
Bains de Mer Tiara with rubies, diamonds, platinum, yellow gold, and white gold, 1955
Actress Grace Kelly received this tiara/these diamond clip brooches as a wedding gift when she married Prince Rainier III of Monaco. The white of the diamonds and the red of the rubies represents the colours of Monaco, making for a special wedding gift. The three elements can be worn as brooches or as a necklace, in addition to the tiara setting.
Princess Grace frequently wore her Bains de Mer Tiara, including for a 1959 visit to the Vatican. She also often wore the elements as brooches, typically on her shoulder (anywhere from one to three together). Interestingly, the tiara appeared quite yellow in the exhibition, but in the official exhibition book, the white gold and platinum is dominant. In any case, it is gorgeous.
Convertible Tiara and Necklace with emeralds, diamonds, and white gold, 2017
What I was not expecting in this exhibition is the number of modern tiaras, with many created in the last ten to fifteen years. Because tiaras are not a go-to accessory anymore, I thought we would see more modern necklaces, earrings, and bracelets, but here we are! (I suspect I’m just not in the right tax bracket to get invited to ultra-exclusive events where tiaras are worn…)
This convertible piece is meant to be a necklace but can be converted to a tiara with a frame. The 140.21 carat emerald in the centre is surrounded by a geometric motif of diamonds. In the exhibition book, Vivienne Becker explains,
The tiara form sits somewhere between a fringe and a kokoshnik, recalling magnificent headpieces from the past, while the necklace is reminiscent of such splendid jewels as Lady Granard’s emerald and diamond necklace. (p.45)
I hope you’ve enjoyed this festive taste of Cartier!
Cheers,
The Historian
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