5 Reasons to Visit Bath Abbey

Whether or not you are religious or practising, cathedrals and houses of worship are wonderful for travellers. They are quite peaceful and a lovely respite from busy days. And they, more often than not, feature some of the most stunning architecture. I love many different things about and places in Bath. As a UNESCO World Heritage City, it has more than enough to offer. However, Bath Abbey is certainly one of my favourites. These are the top 5 reasons to visit Bath Abbey on your first trip to Bath!

Like most cathedrals, Bath Abbey is impressive from start to finish. Well, technically a parish church and only sometimes cathedral. But nevertheless is still incredibly impressive. I did have a rather different experience at the Abbey, as there was significant floor work ongoing. Parts of the floor have been collapsing, so repairs were badly needed. (Bodies buried under the stones were decomposing and leaving empty space for the stones to fall.) So, there were a few parts of the Abbey that I wasn’t able to see, but it was fascinating to see the work in progress!

1) The West End 

Most people, me included, approach the Abbey from the West End (where the Roman Baths are), and it makes a statement from start to finish. The West End does much of it. I’ve got a History Bite on the West End Doors, but the West End at a whole is worth taking a few moments. It is flanked by two Jacob’s Ladders, accompanied appropriately by angels coming and going from heaven. Whomever designed these ladders was a bit confused by ladders, though- the angels descending to earth are climbing down the ladder head first (as you do). In any case, I think it is particularly beautiful for a parish church. (Even if you don’t have time to go into the Abbey, do take the time to properly enjoy the West End.) And if you go early enough in the morning, you can get a beautiful shot without a soul in it.)

2) The Fan Vaults 

I have shared my love of fan vaults in my post on the King’s College Chapel in Cambridge. While the Cambridge fan vault is the largest in world, the fan vaulted ceiling of Bath Abbey is no slouch either. Only a small portion of the original sixteenth century vaults still remain, with the rest recreated in the mid-nineteenth century. (As evidenced by St. Albans Cathedral, the Victorians really liked to mess around with their cathedrals, abbeys, and churches.)

I’m not an architectural historian by any means, but I do love learning about the ideas behind it. According to the Bath Abbey guide, “[t]he nave ceiling seeks to echo the vault of heaven”. (Bath Abbey. Scala Arts and Heritage Publishers Ltd: London, 2011. p.6) Believer or not, it beautifully mimics the skies above. I must say, this might be my favourite ceiling style.

3) The Commonwealth Window 

I know that the point of this blog is for me to provide the history and the answers, but this is going to be the one question I ask. There is a Commonwealth stained glass window in Bath Abbey. From right to left, Canada, South Africa, India, Australia, and New Zealand each have their own pane. I’ve reached out to Bath Abbey on social media a few times, but haven’t had a response- why is this window there?

Is it related to either the First or Second World War, and soldiers lost? Is it related to one of the Commonwealth anniversaries? (I don’t know why it would hold more significance for Bath?) It is quite rare to ever see Canada in a European cathedral or church other than a soldier’s grave, so it was a lovely sighting. (And I must say, the panes themselves are gorgeous and well-crafted. The details are impeccable!) If you know anything about this window, or anyone who happens to work at Bath Abbey, please pass my question on!

4) The Montagu Legacy 

The Montagu family can be seen all over Bath Abbey, and for good reason. As you can see when you visit, the Montagu family has presided over and left their visible mark on the Abbey for half a millenium. After Henry VIII’s Dissolution of the Monasteries, Bath Abbey has left to sit. The stained glass windows and lead roof were removed, and it just sat. Queen Elizabeth I decided that it should be the parish church of Bath, and began a fundraising campaign which continued for several decades. James Montagu was the Bishop of Bath and Wells from 1616 and 1618, and donated £1,000 for a new roof. Henry Montagu, 1st Earl of Manchester, was James’ brother, and donated the heavy wooden doors that you can still see on the West End.

James Montagu would go on to be the Bishop of Winchester, but was entombed in Bath Abbey. You can still see his solid and elegant tomb today, including with the “Honi Soit Qui Mal Y Pense” of the British Order of the Garter. (Why don’t we use mottos in the modern period, exactly?)

5) The Tower Tour 

I’ve already written about the Bath Abbey Tower Tour, but it absolutely needed to be on this list! More and more cathedrals and abbeys are starting to offer tower tours. These historic buildings are expensive to maintain and restore, and they are wonderful way to raise money. However, they are also the best way to look into the building’s past. When restoration work is done, it rarely extended to the towers and ceilings, luckily for us.

When you head up the many stairs for the Bath Abbey tower tour, you can stand 300 years in the past. (You also can look down on the Abbey floor through a few holes in the vaulted ceiling!) And if you make it all the way up, you are treated with spectacular 360° views of Bath. I loved that we stopped at different points, as you notice different things from different heights. Bath’s golden limestone buildings are gorgeous from any height, but they are particularly beautiful in the afternoon sunlight.

These are my top 5 reasons to visit Bath Abbey; have you visited it yourself?

Cheers,
The Historian
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