In the Northern Hemisphere, it is the time of year where we all pay even more attention to our skin. (Yes, we should be paying attention to it all year round, but that is reality…) For society as a whole, we have a tug of war between getting a tan and protecting our skin. Many of us fall one way or the other, but we all have a relationship with the sun. Today I’m going to be looking at summer sun protection throughout the ages, and some of the things that people have used!
The sun is a tricky thing. We need Vitamin D and enjoy warmth (to a point) but too much of it and you can end up with a sunburn or worse. However, it has an even more complicated relationship in fashion history. Western society long associated sun, a tan, and anything related as a sign of being lesser than. If you had to work outside in the sun, you were of lower status and physically marked as such. Interestingly now in the twenty-first century, a bronzed tan is considered by some to be a marker of health, beauty, and wealth. I have a reading list to tackle this summer, and please send any suggested readings my way!
Then- Historical Protection From the Sun
Ronot-Tutin Fan, Victoria and Albert Museum
Fans- the easiest way to make a breeze for yourself. If you are like me, hot weather is your enemy. I get overheated and end up with heat stroke very easily, and I think fans need to make a comeback in a big way. Fans were also used as a means of communication, and weren’t just for keeping yourself cool. The women in Jane Austen’s novels would have been well acquainted with the language of fans, but thankfully, just fanning yourself wasn’t a “word”!
This particular fan was made by Ronot-Tutin, a French artist, sometime between 1890 and 1900. According to the V&A, “He was a French fan painter who specialised in floral fan leaves. The top part of leaf is painted silk gauze, with a panel of bobbin lace below. Although Ronot-Tutin has painted the pansies very realistically, their bright colour and size were not in keeping with French tastes at the time.” I am very curious about decorative fans like this, and if they would have been used for actual protection from the sun. It could theoretically block the sun, but if you can afford to have something like this made, would you have been out in the sun?
18th Century Hat, Victoria and Albert Museum
This hat has dogged me for ages- I didn’t get a proper photo of the information, and as such only have a general idea of when it dates to. I’ve been combing the V&A Collections for quite a while now, and will update if I find it!) It is included in the Court and Country section, which covered court fashion from 1750-1800. Exclusive and expensive French silks were often used in court clothing and accessories, until it was banned in 1766. My best guess is that this hat dates closer to 1750 than 1800, because of the silk used here.
Hats historically have been, and still are, a way to protect yourself from the sun. I would argue that nowadays a good sunscreen is needed to go with it, but a sunhat can make a big difference. Given that your face can burn quite easily, extra protection is absolutely needed. However, I ask the same question as the fan- would the person with a hat like this be spending copious amounts of time outside? I think that depending on the season, they may have spent time walking in estate gardens or pleasure gardens in the city. People who actually worked outside would have had hats, as well, though not hats like this. (Why aren’t they in museums? Many regular, everyday items would have been used and reused until you couldn’t do anything with them! We also tend to protect higher value items, rather than our day to day pieces.)
Now- Modern Sun Protection
SPF Sunscreen
In 2020, sunscreen is not really negotiable. We know that the sun’s UV rays can do an incredible amount of damage to our skin, not the least of which, skin cancer. Theoretically, you should be wearing sunscreen any time that you go outside. UV rays can still pass through clouds, meaning that an overcast day won’t protect you from a burn. However, I do usually give myself a pass on rainy days, to give my skin a slight break. (Make sure to properly wash your face each evening!)
UPF Clothing
UPF is essentially the SPF of clothing. Like UV rays can pass through clouds, it can also pass through clothing. UPF clothing blocks ultraviolet rays from actually passing through your clothing to your skin! I know that I’ve been guilty of assuming that because my skin is covering, I can’t be burnt. And I learned my lesson! Currently, most clothing that is UPF rated is activewear/ athleisure, but I am hoping that we see more and more options going forward.
Summer sun protection has changed throughout the centuries, but remains important as ever!
Cheers,
The Historian
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