It seems somewhat fitting that Women’s History Month 2023 (in the UK and US) wraps up on a Friday, meaning that it concludes here with a Style File Friday post. Given that fashion and fashion history are largely associated with women, it is an excellent pairing. While male designers have dominated fashion for the last century and half, there are several notable female designers that have made their mark. Today I’m sharing six notable women designers in fashion history!
Male Designers Everywhere
Even in 2023, male designers continue to dominate fashion. Yes, the majority of the workers at fashion brands (at any and all price points/ levels of luxury) is completed by women but men lead the ships. There are more female designers leading houses now than ever, but it remains an issue in fashion.
I myself have profiled more male designers than female designers. A large part of this is due to a lack of sources (and images available)- it is designers like Worth, Dior, and Balenciaga who have an abundance of available sources. As time goes on, we are thankfully seeing more information being made available on women in fashion, and I’m looking forward to being able to complete more profiles!
Why I’m Not Covering Coco Chanel
Chanel remains an eternally popular brand. However, I think that Coco Chanel herself was an incredibly problematic designer, not least of all her collaborative work with the Nazis in France and elsewhere. And the brand has never answered for any of it. This Forbes article quotes curators at the Palais Galleria in Paris,
The Palais Galleria believes is important to shift the focus back on to her work: “Gabrielle Chanel’s life is not the subject of our “Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto” exhibition. Many publications have already dealt with Gabrielle Chanel’s biography, which is now very well documented, but this is not the case for her work, her creations; the public is not aware of her contribution to the history of fashion,” a spokesperson said.
I hugely disagree with this and find that her work in fashion is widely known. Those interested in fashion and/or fashion history cannot escape Chanel. Her right-wing history is always tucked away or entirely ignored for her handbags, perfumes, and simpler silhouettes. I have chosen not to highlight her fashion, as I firmly believe that it cannot be separated from her very-problematic views and actions.
♠
Six Notable Women Designers in Fashion
Jeanne Lanvin
Jeanne Lanvin started her career in the late nineteenth century as a milliner and was designing clothing for aristocrats and the upper echelons of society by the 1910s. And not only did she design clothing and accessories, she also opened her own dye factory in 1923, and launched her perfume division in 1924.
Madeleine Vionnet
Fashion is forever indebted to Madeleine Vionnet. Vionnet was a contemporary of Lanvin but moved to London at a young age. She learned to quickly copy French fashions and was able to build a large client base with her skills. However, she is still known for the bias cut- she pioneered this cut that moves diagonally across the grain of the fabric. It is an exceptionally flattering look as it allows the fabric to follow the line of the body.
Lucile
Lucile is probably better known as Lady Duff-Gordon, one of the survivors of the Titanic. However, her story is so much more than that. She was born in Canada and moved to the UK while she was still a child. After a failed marriage, she started her design business to support herself and her young daughter, and continued to build her fashion house for decades.
Elsa Schiaparelli
Although the House of Schiaparelli was closed for several decades in the second half of the twentieth century, the house has had quite a resurgence in the last few decades. Schiaparelli’s avant-garde style led to some of the most creative gowns and accessories of the twentieth century. She worked with several notable artists of the time, including Salvador Dali and Jacques Cousteau. (Schiap’s memoirs are a must-read!)
Ann Lowe
Ann Lowe was largely unknown for most of her career. It seems unthinkable given that she designed the future-Jackie Kennedy’s wedding dress, as well the dress that Olivia de Havilland won to receive her Oscar. Lowe is one of the most prominent and talented African American designers of the twentieth century, and she is so deserving of her place in the spotlight now.
Lilly Pulitzer
Lilly Pulitzer is a specific kind of designer, and isn’t a household name. However, I still find the brand’s story fascinating. Another Jackie Kennedy-adjacent designer, Pulitzer decided to design brightly patterned dresses for her friends and Kennedy’s support (amongst other notable social figures) cemented its summer fashion status.
I hope you’ve enjoyed these six notable women designers from fashion, and Women’s History Month on the blog!
Cheers,
The Historian
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