The Fashion Rules exhibition at Kensington Palace, staged in 2013 has to be one of my favourite exhibitions of all time. It was one of the first true exhibitions I visited (rather than a permanent museum display), and it grabbed me immediately. While the Diana: Her Fashion Story exhibition was very cool to see, I’m not really an 80s/90s fashion fan. Fashion Rules featured pieces from the 1950s to the 1990s, quite a range. The only downfall of that exhibition is that I don’t have great pictures. (Ahh, the time of digital cameras and trying to fit things in quickly…) So, I decided to do a follow up post with official photos on some of the pieces I missed grabbing. Well, it turns out that the Getty Images for this event don’t load, but the wonderful Lady and the Rose has let me use hers! She has a fantastic blog with many royal history posts, fashion history posts, and more- a must follow. (I’ve linked her post below each photo if you want to find more.) For this Style File Friday, let’s dive into some royal fashion at Kensington Palace!
Fashion Rules Exhibition
Fashion Rules focused on the fashion of Her Majesty The Queen, Her Royal Highness The Princess Margaret, and Her Royal Highness, Diana, Princess of Wales. Comparing and contrasting the fashion of all three royal women is a fascinating exercise, especially when you consider how different their lives were. Though they were all royal, they were/are on very different paths. Diplomatic dressing and timely fashion are always a must for royals!
You can find my first Fashion Rules post here!
Note: I have since learned and now take pictures of everything, including exhibition information. Museums tend not to keep permanent pages on their websites for exhibitions, so save that information for later.
Apricot Silk Evening Gown, Norman Hartnell- HM The Queen, 1950s
What would this exhibition be without Norman Hartnell? This is a classic Hartnell design from the 1950s, with full, feminine shape. “The luxurious skirt, supported by layers of tulle, is enhanced by intricate floral lace embellished with gold thread. The lace design is influenced by the traditional Carrickmacross technique that originated in Ireland in the 1820s, and is similar to the technique used on the wedding veil of the Duchess of Cambridge in 2011.” (Modern Royal Fashion, 69)
The elegance of this designs is what makes it stand out. If you quickly looked around, you may miss it for showier pieces. However, once you stop and look at it, it is incredible. You could always spot a Hartnell design from the details (aside from Princess Margaret’s wedding dress). This evening gown is no exception!
Want to know more about Norman Hartnell? You can read my Style History on him, and my review of his autobiography, Silver and Gold!
Silk Organza Evening Gown, Hardy Amies- HM The Queen, 1959
Hardy Amies is one of those designers that I think should have far more of a place in fashion history. People who specialise in twentieth century British fashion will recognise the label, but it is largely forgotten. And in modern royal fashion history, it has definitely held its own. (Sadly the house has been bought out several times, and doesn’t really resemble what it once did.)
The then Princess Elizabeth wore this grey silk organza gown in Nova Scotia on her 1959 tour of Canada. The dress is particularly appropriate, as the mayflower, the flower seen on the dress, is actually the provincial flower of Nova Scotia. The 1959 tour is notable, as it was the last grand-scale tour across the entirety of Canada.
Silk Halter Neck Evening Gown, Norman Hartnell- HRH Princess Margaret, 1951
Princess Margaret has to be my favourite royal fashion icon. She did fashion like few other royals did, and she took risks that shocked everyone while staying glamorous. And while she wasn’t afraid to try something new, she knew what she wanted.
This gown doesn’t actually have a label in it, but historians agree that is unmistakably a Hartnell gown. “Hartnell’s designs for royal clients were typically encrusted in beaded embroidery. This dress reflects the Princess’s preference for simplicity: the lavish jewelled embellishment is reserved for a very small area at the waistline.” (Modern Royal Fashion, 85.) This dress was shocking for a few reasons. The plunging, halter-neck was rarely seen on royals, let alone the Queen’s sister. And Margaret was photographed by the press in the dress while smoking a cigarette- also a royal rarity.
Silk Tulle Gown, Norman Hartnell- HRH Princess Margaret, 1952
Although Hartnell is closely associated with The Queen, Princess Margaret also loved his designs. (He is my favourite designer, so I more than approve!) She loved this gown in particular.
She wore it on several occasions in 1952 and for an official portrait by Dorothy Wilding in 1953… The boned, fitted bodice is expertly constructed in layers of grey silk tulle with grey lace in a leaf pattern underneath. A matching bolero hides the narrow straps at the top of the bodice. Nine layers of stiffened tulle create fullness in the skirt. (Modern Royal Fashion, 83)
And in case you didn’t believe that Margaret and Hartnell was a style dream-team, there is quantifiable proof. In 1953, the New York Dress Institute chose Margaret as the 8th best-dressed woman in the world.
[Picture TBD]
Rayon and Organza Dance Dress, Jacques Azagury- HRH Diana, Princess of Wales, 1985 (Seen here)
As I said above, I am hit and miss with Diana’s fashion. I know that people love her, but as someone born at the tail end of the decade, 80s fashion doesn’t hold a special place in my heart. However, this blue dress was another Fashion Rules piece that grabbed me. It is very 80s; it could only be more 80s if it was neon. But you give me a dance dress, and I am here for it.
Interestingly, this was on sale at Christie’s. Titled “A Ballerina-Length Dance Dress by Jacques Azagury”, it is described as:
The dropped bodice give a “flapper” or “twenties” effect to this dance dress. The bodice is of black rayon, simulating velvet, embroidered with shiny blue stars and flower beads on a background of sprinkled multi-coloured glass beads. The full skirt, of two layers of brilliant blue organza, is trimmed with a bow at the hip and has a black simulated silk petticoat. This dress was worn by the Princess in Florence in 1985, and in Toronto in 1986. (Christie’s here)
I find a lot of Diana’s fashion gets lost for the famous pieces. That wedding dress, the “Revenge Dress”, the black sheep jumper. However, she had some fantastic dresses that deserve more attention.
Are you a fan of the royal fashion at Kensington Palace? And did you see Fashion Rules?
Cheers,
The Historian
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