I have been lucky enough to see Princess Margaret’s fashion in a few different exhibitions now, and I am quite grateful. Royal fashion can be used in any number of ways. Diplomatic messages to visitors and hosts, as a statement about the monarchy itself, and as a nod to one’s roots are all possibilities. However, Margaret was one of the first British royals who dressed for herself, and pushed the boundaries of royal fashion. Princess Margaret is a royal fashion icon, and these are a few of her outstanding pieces.
Princess Margaret was one of the more controversial royals of the twentieth century. She was in a rather odd position. As a daughter of the King and then sister of the King, a private life would have been quite difficult. However, she didn’t receive a formal education, and probably wasn’t as challenged as she should have been. The “Margaret set” were a glamorous group of twenty- and thirty-somethings, enjoying the theatre, society events, salons, vacations, and anything else that they fancied. While she did find her herself in the middle of a few controversies, she also was a royal fashion icon. Her freedom to chose more daring fashions, as well as her own personality, led to some very interesting choices!
Marc Bohan for Christian Dior, 1977 Silver Jubilee
This slimline gown was designed by Marc Bohan (for Christian Dior) for the Queen’s Silver Jubilee in 1977. Although Margaret did often wear elaborately embellished pieces, she also wore many simple pieces. And the simpler pieces are just as striking. This blue gown is particularly vibrant in person, and was perfect for the Fashion Rules exhibition at Kensington Palace in 2013. “The matching sleeveless jacket emphasises the column-like shap and is reminiscent of the collarless styles worn by The Beatles.” (Modern Royal Fashion, p.88.) I love that she took risks, and knew which risks to take. The Silver Jubilee was a massive event, and she knew that all eyes would be on her. She knew which designers worked for her, and I have to admire that.
Norman Hartnell Gown, 1949
No other designer has been as closely connected with the British royal family as Norman Hartnell. In the first half of the twentieth century, he was designing for three generations of the royal family. And although Princess Margaret adored designer Christian Dior, she also wore many Hartnell gowns. This particular gown is described as “Red and white stripped cotton lawn evening dress, with a full skirt and ‘bishop sleeves’.” (Exhibition info”), and was one of my favourites in the Royal Women exhibition in Bath. Cotton evening dresses were quite rare, but Hartnell successfully pulls it off. I think that this dress is the perfect example of her sense of fashion: she favoured bold silhouettes, and they worked so well for her. You can also see quite a different between the pieces from her younger years, with more classic shapes, and her later years, where she pushed the envelope more. Which do you prefer?
And fun fact: this dress was donated to the Fashion Museum by Princess Margaret herself! She donated several pieces to the Museum- it is lovely to know that royals have realised the importance of their clothing and work to preserve them.
Carl Toms Sari-Inspired Dress, 1976
Carl Toms was a bit of a different choice for Margaret, as he was a set and costume designer rather than a standard fashion designer. (he assisted Norman Hartnell on the fittings for Margaret’s wedding dress in 1960.) While I wouldn’t wear this myself, I think that it is absolutely fantastic and it suited Margaret so well. This sari-inspired gown and matching turban were designed for a gold-themed party on the island of Mustique. Mustique is still a popular royal resort with the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge enjoying holidays there now. When Margaret and her set were there, it was quite the party destination, meaning this dress would have been perfect. And even more interesting to me, Margaret re-wore this dress to a film premiere (sans turban) a year later. I appreciate that she wasn’t afraid to dive into costumes (aka fancy dress), and this is the perfect example!
Christian Dior gown, 21st Birthday
What would be a Princess Margaret fashion post be without this dress? Princess Margaret’s 21st birthday Christian Dior gown is one of her best-known garments, as well as one of Dior’s best-known garments. It was worn in Margaret’s birthday portraits that year, as well as to her actual birthday party.
“It is asymmetric in its design with a single strap and diagonal drapery across the front. The nipped-in waist is emphasised with a narrow belt and the luxurious full skirt is formed of seven layers of cream silk tulle. The dress is ingeniously embroidered throughout with gold-coloured raffia and straw-covered sequins.” (Modern Royal Fashion: Seven Royal Women and Their Style, p.83)
I was able to see this gown in person at the Dior: Designer of Dreams exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum, and it was stunning. I’ve heard from a lot of people that they thought it looked dingy or underwhelming, but I think that it is still gorgeous. The craftsmanship is exquisite, and I have to admit, I spent probably 5 minutes looking at this piece alone.
The beading is simply incredible, and the delicate layers of tulle fall so beautifully. The only thing that surprised me is how much smaller it looked in person. The Cecil Beaton portrait makes this gown look absolutely massive, but then again, Beaton could make anything look any way! I would love to see this gown recreated and worn, to get a sense of the movement. Truly one of the most beautiful pieces of modern royal fashion!
If you are interested in more modern royal fashion, you can see Diana: Her Fashion Story here and Fashion Rules at Kensington Palace here!
For historic royal fashion, you can see the Royal Women exhibition Part I right here and Part II right here!
Princess Margaret: Royal Fashion Icon- do you think it is a deserved title?
Cheers,
The Historian
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These gowns are beautiful, I adore the sari inspired dress. So beautifully made!
While there are a lot of things about royal life that seems difficult and challenging, having access to a wardrobe with dresses like that would make up for a lot of it!!