I am happy to see that Elsa Schiaparelli is finally getting the attention that she deserves. For far too long, everyone has been obsessed with Coco Chanel while leaving Schiap in the shadows, but people are recognising her talent again. Not only was she a brilliant couturier, but she also worked with some of the most incredible artists. Her pieces with Jean Cocteau are some of my favourite fashion pieces. For this Style Bite, I’m sharing the Schiaparelli rose evening coat, one of the most interesting and gorgeous pieces in the V&A collections!
Schiaparelli Evening Coat, V&A Museum
According to the V&A, this is:
An ankle-length coat of black silk jersey by Schiaparelli. The collarless neckline with short lapels and the waist with a single black ceramic button having a design of a petticoated skirt and dancing leg, the hook fastening beneath. The back bodice designed by Jean Cocteau and embroidered by Maison Lesage with confronting facial profiles in gold thread forming a shaped vase filled with roses of tucked pink silk and leaves of green thread decorating the upper back and shoulders, the eyes of a blue stone and the lips of red foil, the centre back skirt with applied gold thread to imitate pleats. The lining is of sea green silk (shattered) and interlining of black wool, labelled Schiaparelli London and numbered 4995.
Schiaparelli and Jean Cocteau
This isn’t actually called the rose evening coat, but I think it works well, and highlights both Schiaparelli and Cocteau’s talent. Cocteau called himself a poet, but like many other members of the Dada and Surrealist movements, he works in countless different artforms.
The complexity of this design rather hits you in stages. First, you notice the incredible roses on the shoulders. And then, you see the silhouettes of two faces. Finally, you notice the vases in the negative space between the two faces- quite a lot for one coat. The double image was very popular in Surrealism, and Schiaparelli’s talent for precise cutting helped translate the design.
Want more on Schiaparelli? Head here to read my thoughts on her autobiography, Shocking Life!
Have you seen the Schiaparelli rose evening coat?
Cheers,
The Historian
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