Diana, Princess of Wales, is one of the most modern icon royals. Although she sadly passed away in late August 1997, her fashion choices are still widely copied today. There are a few designers strongly associated with Diana, but I think that the stand-out has to be Catherine Walker. Diana wore her designs for all of her adult life, and their relationship continued through several different eras. Today I’m sharing some of my favourite of Diana’s Catherine Walker pieces from the Diana: Her Fashion Story exhibition, and exploring Diana and Catherine Walker’s relationship further!
Catherine Walker was a French Born designer based in London. She opened her design house in Chelsea in 1977, and started working with Diana a few months after her wedding to Prince Charles. At the time, Diana was still struggling to find her fashion footing, and Walker would prove to be a boon. Walker died in 2010, and the company is continued with her second husband at the helm. Many other royals, including Lady Helen Taylor and the Duchess of Cambridge.
Walker designed over 1000 pieces for the Princess of Wales, including many of her iconic pieces (like the “Elvis” gown). She designed both daywear and evening pieces for Diana, and she was even buried in a black Catherine Walker gown in 1997. Now, let’s get to some of my favourite pieces from the Diana: Her Fashion Story exhibition at Kensington Palace!
Catherine Walker Blue Silk Dress, 1983
According to the exhibition information, “Catherine Walker started designing for the Princess when she was pregnant and needed stylish maternity clothes. They went on to have an enduring partnership, with Walker struck by the Princess’s ease and modesty. / This dress was cut in comfortable, light silk to accommodate the New Zealand heat and a busy schedule of official duties.” I have to be honest, I would consider this more of a turquoise than a blue, but in either case, it is gorgeous.
I loved this particular dress in the exhibition. I didn’t recognise it- I’ve probably seen it on round up tour posts, but nothing stood out. Seeing it in person changed my mind, though! The pleating details in both the bust and skirt are perfect. I find that a lot of Diana’s fashion can be placed pretty easily to a specific time, but this is a timeless piece. She wore this while she was pregnant with Prince Harry, but it could easily have been worn as a regular piece, as well.
Catherine Walker Red Suit, 1996
Although this red suit isn’t the flashiest piece in the whole exhibition, I was looking out for it. “When she discovered Catherine Walker, the Princess found what she needed… a designer who would… concentrate on her. / Jasper Conran’s words highlight how important Walker’s relationship with Diana became. Together they honed Diana’s image, developing what Walker called her ‘royal uniform’.”
Diana’s uniform of sheath dresses and skirt suits worked well for her in the 1990s. Not quite as bold as her former royal wardrobe, she focused on building relationships with different organisations and causes, and her wardrobe reflected that. The red is a bit bolder than some of her other Catherine Walker pieces, but the simplicity of it balances.
She wore this to a particularly important event. She attended a lunch to help London Lighthouse launch a new funding campaign, an organisation supporting those with HIV/AIDS. Diana was one of the first celebrities to publicly support the cause, when many were actively avoiding it. She often made waves for breaking with protocol and supporting “out of the box” causes, but it is a big reason why she was so loved- the People’s Princess. When I think of her, I think of all of the unconventional ways she gave support (for a royal), and I loved that this aspect was included in the exhibition.
Catherine Walker Blue Day Dress, 1997
According to the exhibition, “This day dress is the only one displayed here that Diana did not wear to an official event. She chose it for a shopping trip to Bond Street in central London. After sixteen years in the public eye, Diana had found her style for both formal events and casual outings.” I have to say, when I think of Diana, I think of this sheath dress. It is elegant and understated and works so perfectly, for well, almost anything.
Most of her adult life was chaotic and dramatic, but her Catherine Walker pieces never relay any of that. She certainly wore some flashier and more attention-grabbing pieces. However, I think the fact that she continued to return to Walker’s understated pieces is important. And doubly so when we factor in that she was essentially reinventing herself at this point in her life. The light blue and elegant silver pattern is still one of my favourites!
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Catherine Walker is still a royal favourite. The Duchess of Cambridge regularly wears coat-dresses from the designer. The house tends to lean towards a militaristic style, which works well in her wardrobe. It is fascinating to see a smaller house maintain a position of royal favour throughout the generations!
Looking for more Kensington Palace? You can see the Queen’s Apartments here! And more royal fashion in the Fashion Rules exhibition here!
What do you think of Diana and Catherine Walker’s relationship in fashion?
Cheers,
The Historian
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