Fashion history has become more and more popular with the general public which I think is fantastic. However, much of the attention is focused on Christian Dior and Coco Chanel (most likely due to blockbuster exhibitions at multiple museums). And it is unfortunate because they are not the only designers to lead fascinating careers and lives. Sir Hardy Amies was one of the most important designers in Queen Elizabeth II’s life, and he is well-worth the attention. Luckily, we have From SOE Hero to Dressing the Queen: The Amazing Life of Sir Hardy Amies by Lynda Rowland to bridge the gap!
Thank you to NetGalley for providing an eARC in exchange for an honest review.
From SOE Hero to Dressing the Queen: The Amazing Life of Sir Hardy Amies, Lynda Rowland
Sir Hardy Amies was one of Britain’s foremost fashion designers who led a fascinating double life as a couturier and an intelligence officer during the Second World War. Sir Hardy’s work for the Belgian resistance effort as part of the Special Operations Executive, was so significant that he was awarded l’Ordre de la Couronne, or Order of the Crown, by the Belgian Government in 1948. Not only did Sir Hardy conduct these operations, but he also simultaneously developed his burgeoning fashion business through the British Board of Trade’s drive to promote UK manufacturing throughout the conflict.
He was a man who at once epitomized and challenged the reality of being homosexual in an era when society was deeply unaccepting. He was thrust into what was an overtly macho and potentially hostile environment and, against that backdrop, made a valuable and courageous contribution to the war effort.
Born into what we would consider a lower middle-class family, he was handsome, cultured and gregarious and effortlessly traversed the post-war world of high society, launching his haute couture house to great acclaim, gaining clients ranging from film stars to royalty. His work for Queen Elizabeth II saw him awarded the CVO in 1977 and this was elevated to the KCVO, Knight Commander of the Victorian Order in 1989. Her Majesty’s warmth of feeling towards Sir Hardy is evident in the many hand-written thank-you letters she sent him over the course of their long working relationship.
Sir Hardy, who lived until the age of 93, could have been dismissed as a lightweight character from the frivolous world of fashion. However, despite a not-particularly extensive formal education, he was highly intelligent, extremely well-traveled and spoke three languages, and his story encapsulates the extraordinary cultural and societal turbulence of the twentieth century.
Why You Should Read This…
I was rather excited to see this book on NetGalley. Norman Hartnell remains one of the most popular British couturiers who has outfitted the late Queen but Hardy Amies was also one of Her Majesty’s favourite designers. And now we have a new updated look at the talented designer’s life.
Many of the favoured designers of the 1940s, 1950s, and 1960s served in the military during the Second World War, like Hartnell, Christian Dior, and Jacques Fath. Their service tends to be forgotten- I think that many authors who write general fashion history books like to focus on the fashion to the exclusion of all else. Unfortunately, this means that much of these designers’ life stories get lost.
Rowland covers Sir Hardy Amies’ full life, including a dedicated section on his military service. I will admit- I know relatively little about life in the military, so I appreciated the straightforward way that this section was written. It is an easy-to-read biography; it gives needed background to Amies’ later career.
Of course, I was also happy to read about Amies’ career as a designer. I appreciate that Rowland again took us through the entire trajectory of the House of Hardy, as a lot of journalists will simply start with his collection for Princess Elizabeth’s 1950 tour of Canada. (Not that I’m not excited to read about that collection in particular, but again, it is only part of the story!)
Rowland does not shy away from Amies’ personal life, either. Historically, many homosexual designers would understandably keep their private lives very private, as there were still laws at the time making same sex relationships a crime. However, she explores Amies’ relationship with Ken Fleetwood in depth; this relationship would last until Fleetwood’s death in the 1990s.
All in all, this is a fantastic biography on a lesser-discussed royal couturier!
Is From SEO Hero to Dressing the Queen: The Amazing Life of Sir Hardy Amies on your to-read list?
Cheers,
The Historian
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